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10 Common Kitchen Design Mistakes You Need to Avoid

Author Chigwell Building & Joinery

Date 15/10/2018

When it comes to kitchen renovations it is always best to consult experts and professionals that understand the different elements and features of a strategic design. There are certain rules that are generally followed when it comes to designing the layout of your new kitchen. This is an incredibly important area and it must be designed properly. If you are planning on renovating your kitchen or beginning from scratch, this article will outline how to avoid the top 10 design mistakes that too many home owners have make.

The following outline will give you 10 common mistakes that you will want to avoid at all costs. Your kitchen is an integral room in your home, so be sure to follow these suggestions as you continue reading below.

1) Lack of Traffic Flow

Being able to access all the different sections of your kitchen is important and leads to a better functioning area. You will need to design the right layout that optimises the space available to you. You want a fully functioning cooking area that allows for good workflow and is easy to move around.

2) Unused Storage Space

There is plenty of different things in a kitchen and you will undoubtedly need plenty of storage space. Be sure that everything is organised and that your food preparation areas are clear of clutter and allow space. You can use the walls to hang objects or you can increase cupboard space and even install vertical cabinets. There are many different options available to maximise storage space. Just look at the different options out there and be creative.

3) Poor Lighting

Every kitchen needs to provide good lighting as there are many tasks that are involved with food preparation. Adding illumination can add beauty to your cooking area but it does not need to be a dramatic effect. Ensure that you have a safe working area that is properly lighted for preparing food.

4) Low-Quality Kitchen Items

You will want to purchase items that will last for a long time and won't break down from wear and tear right away. Purchasing items at a discount or using poor quality products will only cost you more money. Kitchen environments provide a lot of wear and tear so invest in quality items to save money instead of wasting it on inefficient tools you will need to regularly replace.

5) Bad Ventilation

Having a kitchen that stinks up the entire house with the foods you are cooking is not ideal. You will want to ensure that your kitchen is well ventilated and using range hoods will circulate air. Also adding a window can help with fumes, whilst decent ventilation extends the life of your appliances and will fill your home with fresh air and fewer odours.

6) Using an Inappropriate Kitchen Island

Having the wrong kitchen island or having it in the wrong location causes more trouble then it solves. It may, in fact, cause clutter and hassles with manoeuvrability and cooking. Make sure you choose the correct shape and size that won't obstruct the kitchen or interrupt traffic flow.

7) Bad Garbage Systems

You will need an optimised solution for dealing with trash management when it comes to your kitchen. Your cooking area can end up looking dirty and even smelling bad if this is not managed appropriately. You need cleanliness and having proper garbage disposal is necessary. A good idea is to use a container that has a cover or hide it in the cabinet.

8) Changing the Kitchen Layout

Some people will make a final decision on what they desire and then they keep on making changes. You will want to stick to your design plan and meet your requirements. Changing your ideas and layout will only cost more money. Be sure to pick a plan that you can stick with that you will appreciate.

9) Following Trends

Some homeowners will choose to follow a certain trend or style just for the sake of it. Unfortunately once the trend has changed, your kitchen will look outdated. If you cannot redesign and refit your kitchen regularly, then you should use a timeless design that works for you. It is a good idea to use a general theme and to avoid overspending on appliances based on trends.

10) Not Seeking Consultation

If you are not a design professional, don't try to do the work yourself. You can save money and ensure proper workmanship by hiring professionals to get it done for you. You can also hire consultants for design ideas and to really get the kitchen of your dreams. Also, pick a budget and stick to it and be flexible for best results.


How to Design a U-Shaped Kitchen Peninsula

Author Chigwell Building & Joinery

Date 13/09/2018

Choosing a U-shaped kitchen peninsula can be a great addition as an ideal option for those who are looking to change the look and layout of their kitchen. When peninsula kitchen designs are utilised, they offer many of the same benefits as an island that includes extra storage space, more workspace for food preparation, as well as a place to socialise with family and friends. A U-shaped kitchen peninsula can fit in almost any kitchen location and this article will enlighten you to the various complexities involved with designing a U-shaped kitchen peninsula that brings better functionality to your cooking area.

There are 5 key points that we will examine on how to build the best U-shaped peninsula possible. Continue reading below to gain much-needed details that you should know before choosing to incorporate this feature into your kitchen design:

What is a Peninsula?

The first thing you will need to know is what exactly a U-shaped kitchen peninsula is. They are very similar to a kitchen island in the sense that they are a unit that provides a worktop and storage space. However, instead of standing freely in the middle of your kitchen, a U-shaped kitchen peninsula is attached to three walls and have a distinct shape. They are accessible from one side and are an extension to help separate open space in the layout of the kitchen. A kitchen island is accessible from all four separate sides which differentiates the U-shaped peninsula.

1) Pros & Cons

There are plenty of positive and negative attributes in choosing to implement this design in your kitchen design. They definitely offer you more counter space and since it is connected to walls there is more storage space that can incorporate extra cupboards and drawers. Another positive attribute to a peninsula is that they fit in smaller kitchens as well as bigger ones. The negative attributes to a peninsula are that they can take up needed space and room and they have less room for other people. They are also more expensive than other peninsulas and islands.

2) Planning the Layout

You will be limited only by your imagination and the available space you have in your kitchen. There are a few methods you can integrate a U-shaped peninsula into your overall layout. You can use it to define a room that helps define zones. They can also be used as a place to eat for breakfasts and casual meals. You can even add a peninsula to an L-shaped kitchen to create the surface area of a U-shaped peninsula. You can also incorporate kitchen appliances within the design.

3) Sink & Hob Positions

Another thing that can be implemented into the design of a U-shaped kitchen peninsula is where you position your hob as well as the sink. It is common for home designers to have the sink and the hob to be in a position directly opposite from each other so they are easily accessible while doing things such as food preparation and cooking. Be sure to have all of the necessities of your U-shaped peninsula to be close to each other for better fluidity and economy of time, motion, and space.

4) Symmetry & Balance

The benefits of U-shaped kitchens give you the distinct opportunity for symmetry with a design that is well balanced. You don't want to compromise the integrity or usability of your kitchen but many homeowners enjoy a clean and balanced aesthetic by incorporating beautiful symmetry. You can easily incorporate kitchen appliances into the symmetry or you can also deviate from a typical design. Your home is entirely unique as you are and building your peninsula will be dependent on the space and structure you have to work within your kitchen area.

5) Maximise Counter Space

Whatever size kitchen your home may have, a benefit of a U-shaped peninsula will give you extra counter space that you can use. It can be utilised for preparing food and can even serve as an area for eating breakfast or even socialising with family and friends. Having more counter space will also offer a much cleaner and less cluttered working area.

A U-shaped peninsula is a great way to improve your kitchen.

With a U-shaped peninsula design, you give yourself much more room for flexibility in designing the final layout. There are plenty of different possibilities and variations on what you can achieve when using this design plan. Be sure to utilise the suggestions above that are right for you and your kitchen needs.


6 Common Practical Uses of MDF (Medium Density Fibreboard)

Author Chigwell Building & Joinery

Date 06/08/2018

Medium Density Fibreboard is a specially engineered product that is created from wood fibres.

It is a dense product and has many different uses in a variety of industries.

Fibreboard is a sturdy product and is often covered with a veneer and it can also include secondary raw materials such as fibres from sugarcane and wood chipping.

This is an incredibly versatile material to work with and this article we'll share with you the different practical uses for MDF and what you can do with it. 

Furniture

To begin with, many different furniture companies utilise specially measured MDF boards and if you have ever purchased an inexpensive piece of furniture like a bookshelf or an entertainment centre, then chances are they may be constructed from MDF.

Many different inexpensive furniture pieces are constructed from low to medium-density fibreboard because this particular product is easily produced and is economical, which lowers the cost of manufacturing and production.

Using low-density fibreboard typically reduces the costs associated with producing furniture and it is a very common material that is used in the creation of prefabricated furniture.

Companies like IKEA and other big store companies offer products that are built from this material.

Cabinetry

Another thing that medium density fibreboard is known for is home interior cabinetry.

It's most common to find cabinets made of fibreboard and then finished with solid wood laminate on top.

Home interior products like kitchen cabinets and shelving units are typically built from MDF and this also includes doors, mouldings and sometimes even flooring such as wood effect laminates.

There are many different applications that can be integrated with using medium density fibreboard and these are only a few examples of how it is used in home interiors.

Fire Resistance

One interesting use for medium density fibreboard that many people may not be aware of is for its fire retardant capabilities.

Certain buildings and structures require the use of fire retardant MDF in their construction.

This type of fibreboard is known to be used in the construction of commercial buildings which include stores and offices and other buildings that must meet certain building regulations and requirements for safety.

Some homeowners choose to use fire retardant MDF in the construction of their homes as well as to provide further protection from any possible fires spreading.

Vapour Repulsion

Medium density fibreboard can also be utilised as a vapour barrier and insulation for both homes and commercial buildings.

This is because it has a durability and treatment that makes it an excellent vapour barrier when used with other vapour repellant products.

This type of wood is able to deal with long periods of moisture and drying out without being damaged like shrinking or going through the process of rotting.

It can act as a vapour barrier and it can also offer insulation and prevent heat loss which would ultimately help with lowering heating costs and electrical bills.

Soundproofing

This may not be as widely known, but fibreboard can also provide soundproofing and lower the ability of sound to travel.

Many speaker manufacturers use medium density fibreboard or particle board because it absorbs sound and prevents vibration from inside the speaker casing.

This wood product can also be used in media rooms, walls of apartment buildings and offices as well as floor underlayment to help minimise sound disturbances and noise pollution.

Many different contractors and building companies use MDF for this particular purpose during construction for the application of reducing noise and sound traveling.

Roofing

Another interesting fact about the versatility known for fibreboard is its use for around the home both inside and outside.

Fibreboard can be used for all sorts of housing needs including roofing materials for low sloped roofs.

MDF is an excellent material that can be used as backing for shingles of any kind of roof.

You can also use it as sheathing for walls inside your home.

MDF is incredibly durable as well as flexible which gives it numerous applications when it comes to a family home both in the interior and exterior.

Ultimately medium density fibreboard is a top-notch solution with many different uses and things that it can be used for.

This list of common practical uses of MDF is just a short example and there are plenty of more uses that MDF can be utilised for.

It will continue to be a cheaper option rather than purchasing timber products such as plywood and with its numerous uses, it will always be a well known and widely used material in the fabrication of furniture all the way to the construction of buildings and homes.


How to fit a laminate or wooden kitchen worktop

Author Chigwell Building & Joinery

Date 06/07/2018

Make your countertop a perfect fit every time

Preparation

Before proceeding, it is assumed that your kitchen floor units are fully installed, are fixed in their permanent positions and have been adequately levelled to prevent any issues with fitting the worktop correctly. If not, please ensure you have sufficiently levelled the floor units and secured them in place before attempting to fit a kitchen worktop.

If you wish to fit a granite, quartz or solid surface material such as corian, this must be carried out by a fully qualified professional who will create an accurate template of your kitchen and prepare the worktop off-site before delivering and fully fitting. This tutorial will only concentrate on cuttable surfaces such as laminate, solid wood or butchers block.

Finally, make sure all of your kitchen floor units are clean and free from debris such as sawdust or any other contaminants that may affect your final finish. You also want to ensure all surfaces are sufficiently prepared, flat and true such as the back walls behind the units, before attaching the worktop.

Tools Required

As with any DIY project, you need the best tools to get the best results. For this job, you’ll need:

  • kitchen worktop (laminate, wood or butchers block)
  • worktop joining strips
  • length of timber baton
  • 2 x G-clamps
  • circular saw
  • eye goggles
  • gloves
  • measuring tape
  • utility square
  • pencil (for marking up)
  • electric or Phillips screwdriver
  • sandpaper
  • hacksaw
  • electric drill and drillbits
  • masking tape
  • scissors
  • screws

Setting Out

Planning ahead or what professionals refer to as “setting out” is incredibly important, as it will help give you a clear plan of how you will lay your worktop onto the units, where longer lengths of worktop will fit and where adjoining pieces will fit. Where possible, you want to do as little cutting as possible and take advantage of the factory cut edges for adjoining pieces. They will be very square and true and most likely give a neater edge than cutting with a handsaw or electric circular saw. You also want to have as fewer joins as possible so that your worktop looks like one continuous piece.

If for example, you have a U-shaped or L-shaped kitchen, you should use longer pieces of worktop along the longest walls and use smaller pieces for adjoining sections. You want to place joining strips in places that will be least visible and will not spoil the final finish.

Once you have worked out how and where you wish to lay your worktop, you are ready to start.

Measuring & Cutting

Firstly, start with the longest wall and measure the length of worktop you need to fit with one continuous piece from end-to-end. If there are any exposed edges, make sure you compensate for a sufficient overhang over the kitchen unit’s edge, usually at least 20mm and then mark up the kitchen worktop on the underside using a measuring tape, a pencil and a square.

Now with the worktop on a cutting table or saw horse with the underside facing upwards, clamp a piece of timber baton to the worktop as a cutting guide for your circulate saw, so that the blade exactly lines up with the pencil mark you have just made. Make sure that the baton is securely in place and squarely aligned with the pencil marking. The baton will act as a secure cutting guide that your circular saw with press against and ensure the cut is as straight and as clean as possible.

When ready to cut, make sure you wear a pair of protective goggles and gloves. Then cut the worktop with your circular saw in one smooth continuous motion. Do not stop halfway through as this may lead to splintering of the worktop and ruin the final finish.

After cutting, you may need to give the edge a light sandpaper just to remove any nicks or odd edges. Make sure not to sand the visible worktop surfaces and only concentrate on the sides.

Fitting the Worktop

Now lift the cut worktop into position and lay it on top of the base units precisely where you intend to fit it. Push it correctly into position and check that the back is firmly pressed against the rear wall, the overhang at the front is even and any side overhangs are correct. Once satisfied, use a couple of G-clamps to hold the worktop firmly to the units below ready for attaching.

Some suppliers use L-Brackets whilst others require you to drill through the underneath of your units into the worktop and screw them together directly. Either way, you will need to use an electric drill to drill pilot holes from your base units into the worktop. Make sure not to drill too far so that you do not pierce the worktop and ruin the surface. Pilot holes only need to be short just to make attaching the units to the worktops easier and quicker.

Once you have drilled your pilot holes through the base cabinets into the worktop, simply screw them together using the supplied screws and a screwdriver. You should connect the worktop at both the front and towards the back of the base units to ensure a firm, snug fit that will not move.

You should now have your first piece of worktop fitted in place.

Repeat the process above for your additional pieces, ensuring that your cuts are neat and compensate for any overhangs. If you are cutting an adjoining piece, you will most likely need to attach a joining strip to the edge to give a neater, flush edge.

Simply measure the length of strip required and cut it to length using a hacksaw. Then attach the joining strip to the required edge of your worktop using the supplied screws and slide into place. Then when you are satisfied the worktop is positioned correctly, attach it to the base units as described above.

Finishing Touches

If you have any exposed cut edges on surfaces such as laminate, you may need to glue a finishing strip to the edge. Finishing strips are usually supplied in lengths that will need to be cut down. So firstly, tape it to the edge of your worktop using some masking tape and draw the shape using a pencil by templating around the edge of the worktop profile. Then cut the end strip with scissors to carefully create a perfect fitting edge.

Use the glue supplied, ensuring the room has sufficient ventilation due to fumes and apply to both the end strip and the worktop edge. Once it has cured and is ready (usually around 15 minutes), press the end strip in place and use some masking tape to hold it in place until the glue has fully set. Once set, remove the masking tape and your end strip should be firmly affixed.

If the end strips show any odds edges that protrude, you can use a light sandpaper to gently file off any rough edges to make the finish as smooth as possible.

You should now be ready to install all of your remaining kitchen worktops by following the above instructions.

See It in Action

If you are still unsure how to follow our guidelines, watch the useful video below by Wickes for really helpful instructions on fitting a laminate or sold wood kitchen worktop:


How to fit kitchen plinths, pelmets & cornices

Author Chigwell Building & Joinery

Date 07/06/2018

Give your kitchen the perfect finishing touches

Preparation

Before proceeding, it is assumed that your kitchen floor units and wall cabinets have all been fitted and fully installed and are fixed in their permanent positions. If otherwise, please refer to our previous blog posts explaining how to fit kitchen cabinets correctly. It is also assumed that any flooring has been laid fully and is fitted beneath your kitchen units. Plinths should only be fitted once your floor coverings are in place.

Finally, make sure all surfaces are clean and free from debris such as sawdust, dirt, cement dust, screed or any other contaminants that may affect your final finish. You want to ensure all areas and surfaces are clean before proceeding.

Tools Required

As with any DIY project, you need the best tools to get the best results. For this job, you’ll need:

  • electric mitre saw (or mitre block and fine toothed handsaw)
  • jigsaw (with fine toothed blade)
  • measuring tape
  • pencil (for marking up)
  • utility square
  • electric or Phillips screwdriver
  • lengths of plinths, pelmets & cornices
  • plinth brackets and clips
  • screws
  • joining blocks
  • mitre bond

What Goes Where?

Before staring, it is crucial to understand which pieces are suited to various parts of your kitchen units.

The plinths, sometimes referred to as kkckboards, are designed to go underneath your kitchen cabinets where they meet the floor. They are designed to give a nice, neat finished to your cabinets where the floor meets the bottom edges but also to prevent debris and objects from collecting underneath the cabinets.

Pelmets sit at the base of your wall cabinets along the front edge and are considered to be a decorative finish, but also help to hide the underside of your kitchen cabinets which in most cases do not have the same nice finish as the fronts. They are also useful for hiding items such as under-mounted down-lights and cables that may run along the underside of the cabinets.

Lastly, cornices are designed to sit along the front edge at the top of kitchen wall cabinets and are again, considered to be a decorative finished that helps to fill space between the tops of the cabinets and ceiling. They also help to add the illusion of height and in many cases, add a very nice finishing touch to cabinets when installed.

Fitting the Plinths

Plinths are usually supplied in standard lengths of 2.4m - 2.75m so may require cutting to size, depending on the type of kitchen units you have.

If your units have side panels that touch the floor, your plinths will need to sit in between each side panel from one edge of the starting kitchen unit and to the other end of the next. Firstly, measure the gap between each unit side panel and mark the distance on the back of your plinth with a pencil. When marking, use a square to ensure you have a perfectly straight 90º angle before cutting. Now cut the plinth using either an electric mitre saw set at exactly 90º or carefully cut using a fine tooth hand saw.

If the height of your plinths is greater than the gap between your kitchen units and the floor, you may have to trim them lengthways down to an appropriate size. Again, measure the height between your kitchen units and the floor and then make a mark on either side on the rear unfinished side of the plinth and draw a pencil line the full length of the plinth using a straight edge. Using a jigsaw with a fine toothed blade attached, cut the plinth to the desired size.

Once your plinth is correctly cut to size, place your plinth in front of the cabinet feet with the rear unfinished side facing upwards and the cute edge facing towards you. Then, mark the centre position of the feet with a pencil onto the back of the plinth board. Make your marks the full height of the back of the plinth exactly at 90º angles to the feet using a utility square. Once you have your marks in place, screw clip brackets exactly halfway up the plinth and central to the marks you have made. Once in place, slide clips onto each of the the brackets.

Finally, lift plinth into place and gently push the plinth towards the cabinets legs so that the clips pop and grip the legs, holding the plinth into position. Your first plinth should now fitted.

Simply repeat the above process for all your remaining plinths.

Fitting the Pelmets

Like plinths, pelmets are usually supplied at set lengths of around 2.4m long therefore, you may need to cut them down to the correct size.

To start, simply measure from the starting edge of the furthest unit to the next protruding edge on an adjacent unit and mark that length with a pencil on the rear unfinished face of your pelmet. If the first edge is to be a straight cut, make sure the mark you create is 90º true using a utility square, then cut using a fine tooth hand saw or an electric mitre saw set precisely at 90º to your pelmet.

If any of your pelmets are to be fitted to a kitchen unit that sits on an open edge, then you will need to cut mitred edges at an outward 45º angle. For the cleanest, best finish, use an electric mitre saw. However, you can use a fine tooth hand saw and a mitre block, although this does tend to be more fiddly and can lead to uneven mitred edges.

Once your pelmets are all cut to size and are ready to attach to the kitchen units, screw joining blocks to the rear unfinished side of the pelmets at the top of the edge that will touch the underside of the kitchen units. Then position the pelmets flush to the front outside edges of the kitchen units, and screw them to the units on the underside, making sure that any mitred or straight edges are sat precisely where they need to be to create a seamless join with the adjoining pelmet. Apply mitre bond to any mitred edges so that adjoining pieces are sufficiently glued together and show an even, neat edge.

Repeat the above process until all your pelmets are fitted.

Fitting the Cornices

Attaching cornices is practically the same process as fitting pelmets. The only difference is that you are attaching the cornices to the top of your kitchen units. So follow the same practices by accurately measuring your lengths and then make accurate 90º or 45º mitred cuts where appropriate, then screw in joining blocks and then apply mitre bond where necessary.

It’s as simple as that!

See It in Action

If you are still unsure how to follow our guidelines, watch the video below for really helpful instructions on fitting kitchen plinths, pelmets and cornices.